Why it matters:
- Products for textured tresses are a big business with plenty of upside potential. More than 65% of the world's population indicate their hair has some form of texture whether it is kinky, coily, curly, or wavy.
- Janell Stephens grew her brand from a kitchen-based passion project to a profitable business with distribution in major retailers including CVS, Target, Ulta Beauty, Walmart, and others.
- Black consumers spent $9.4 billion on beauty last year, an increase of $1.3 billion over 2022. Retailers are clearing space on shelves to meet their needs.
Janell Stephens, the Founder of Camille Rose, spends a great deal of time on the road speaking to customers about her founder story. Her connection with shoppers is one of the reasons her brand is the No. 1 Black-owned, woman-owned textured hair care brand in the U.S. market, according to Nielsen.
Stephens said creating a brand — especially as a Black woman — comes with challenges. Women and/or founders of color collectively receive less than 3% of venture capital funding, according to Kauffman Fellows research. Breaking into a business dominated by powerhouses like Procter & Gamble, L’Oréal, and Unilever isn't for the faint of heart.
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Stephens didn't start out to be a beauty entrepreneur. The mother of five was simply trying to find a remedy for her family's eczema and seeking education on how to care for their tresses without relaxers. Refusing to resort to steroid creams physicians recommended to offset the side effects some chemical hair relaxers had on her children, Stephens studied under an herbalist and started making remedies in her kitchen. She officially launched Camille Rose in 2011.
"I knew nothing about formulating," Stephens told CO—. "But I was on a quest for organic and natural ingredients. My philosophy was that if ingredients nourished you internally, they were good for the outside of your body as well. We are more than personal care; we are a lifestyle brand."
Booth at beauty trade show lands Camille Rose big Target order
While making her products by hand, Stephens received an order from Target for 100 stores. Janell explained, "I happened to be in the right place at the right time. I did a small beauty show and a buyer from Target was at the same show. He stopped at my booth, and we started talking about my brand. He loved my story and invited me up to speak with the rest of the Target buyers. That is where it all began."
The products sold and the checks came in, and Stephens realized she could build a serious business. For a year she continued to hand-make her products. "It almost wiped me out — it was growing pains. But I don't regret it. Product creation kept me in the mindset of a user," she said.
Eventually she realized she needed to gear up for growth, but she is still very much what her friends and family called her, The Master Mixtress. She has had to hand off some duties, taking the time to build a team, but she remains deeply involved, especially in product creation.
When Stephens decided it was time to a find laboratory that suited her food-grade formulas, she was greeted with many no's.
"They wanted me to swap out my ingredients for synthetics to save money," Stephens recalled. When she finally found a match, the company closed. Luckily, she connected with a chemist who shared her views and was able to start her own company, one that continues to produce for Camille Rose today.
With grit and determination, Stephens turned a profit within two years — an almost unheard-of feat for a nascent brand. And she did so without taking on any outside financing.
National and international takes flight: Brand sold in 50,000 retail doors
Today, Camille Rose is sold in almost every major mass-market retailer in the United States, along with growing international distribution in South Africa, Europe, and coming soon to Brazil. Camille Rose is sold in approximately 50,000 doors, including CVS, Sally Beauty, Target, Ulta Beauty, Walgreens, Walmart, and Whole Foods Market.
Social media accelerated Camille Rose's growth as well as a greater acceptance of natural hairstyles and regulations banning discrimination in the workplace such as the Crown Act.
Today Stephen's product line includes more than 70 items ranging from hair to body care. She's still involved in product development, with new items for protective styles like braids in the works.
Get rid of your fears. Have tunnel vision and shut out the noise … don't be impacted by people who grow faster than you. Grow at a pace that is comfortable.
Janell Stephens, Founder and CEO of Camille Rose
Serving the $9.4 billion beauty market for Black consumers
Black consumers spent $9.4 billion on beauty products in 2023, up $1.3 billion, according to NielsenIQ. Spending on beauty products by Black consumers comprises 12.5% of total U.S. dollars. Products for textured hair are one of the biggest segments, with 65% of people around the globe indicating they have textured tresses.
There is still a long road ahead, but the retail community is listening to consumers, she said. "Black consumers have spending power and determine what is on the shelf."
Stephens, however, realizes she must expand her consumer base to stay competitive. "When I started, my focus was clean ingredients and meeting the needs of my family. I moved on to creating products for the rest of my family and friends. I like to think that my group of family and friends has just gotten bigger. We have shampoos and conditioners for all hair types from straight to textured. Who wouldn't want to use products with great ingredients? Who doesn't like peppermint and honey?" she said.
New sales strategies at chains like Walmart, where products are merchandised by need rather than sectioned off as ethnic hair care, help Camille Rose compete on an even playing field.
The level of success she has achieved has not been without sacrifices. "That work-life balance theory is not real," Stephens said laughing. "That went out the door years ago."
She is often asked for advice about building from the kitchen to landing on store shelves. "Get rid of your fears. Have tunnel vision and shut out the noise … don't be impacted by people who grow faster than you. Grow at a pace that is comfortable."
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